Shabbat morning services in Israel start early (8am) and end early (10:30am), after all there is that relaxed and leisurely delicious lunch and then shluff waiting. So off to the Great Synagogue for services with Barry & Michael, Stephen, and Charles & Debra. Three of the things I like about the Great Synagogue are the beautiful stained glass and ambiance, the amazing hazzanut and choir, and their welcoming and open-mindedness to all Jews regardless of denomination. In fact they honored me with p'ticha (opening and closing the Ark when the Torah is taken out and returned). The Hazzan and the choir were outstanding and the people were just so friendly. Those there to pray came from a diversity of backgrounds and practices, in fact the gentleman who chanted the Haftarah was visiting from Australia and had asked via email if he could chant this Saturday. I got the chance to sit next to one of the Gabbaim and leaders of the synagogue and I asked him how it was that they could navigate such a pluralistic approach? He answered that the leaders of the synagogue hold as a value of the community the idea that they respect and welcome all Jews while maintaining their Zionist orthodox approach. He then proceeded to invite us to the Hazzan's special back room kiddush - which is by invitation only. Wow! Some good vodka, schnapps and herring!
After lunch and a little shluff, Alexis and I dropped the kids at Dannyland, an indoor supervised playland for kids (this is a really cool perk offered by the Dan Panorama). Then off for a late afternoon walking tour of the Jewish quarter. Reuven Lavi our guide if I haven't yet said this already is absolutely awesome. He really knows what he is talking about (which is always good for a guide) but also knows how to make what we are seeing relevant and fun. On this walking tour as we explored the Jewish Quarter, Rueven told us the stories behind everything from the Cardo (which was locked up on Shabbat) to how the quarter has been built layer upon layer, era upon era. Every building, street and archway has a story that connects it to real people and real history. I had walked these alleys numerous times but until this Shabbat I never had as intimate a connection to them.
Walking back we thought the kids may have been worried that we returned later than expected but to our surprise they were still having a blast at Dannyland (they had made a giant obstacle course), and we literally had to pry them away. After a quick refresh, the group gathered for havdallah. It is always sad to see Shabbat go, especially when you are in Israel, and it is the only real weekend day of rest. Yet, Ben Yehuda Street calls and the party begins.
Okay, so two years ago the kids and I discovered the Burger Bar. A really trendy burger chain that frankly just does burgers the right way. We got to the Burger Bar just in the nick of time, because literally half the world all of a sudden showed up, and began shoving, yelling over way too loud techno music and videos. The burger was great, but definitely go at an off-time. After gaining my hearing back, we joined the crowds in the sport of shopping and even got Mordechai a new kippah from the Kippa Man (a must go to shop on any visit). Overall, a great day and a fun night.
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