TBD Israel Trip 2012: Day 5

Shabbat morning services in Israel start early (8am) and end early (10:30am), after all there is that relaxed and leisurely delicious lunch and then shluff waiting. So off to the Great Synagogue for services with Barry & Michael, Stephen, and Charles & Debra. Three of the things I like about the Great Synagogue are the beautiful stained glass and ambiance, the amazing hazzanut and choir, and their welcoming and open-mindedness to all Jews regardless of denomination. In fact they honored me with p'ticha (opening and closing the Ark when the Torah is taken out and returned). The Hazzan and the choir were outstanding and the people were just so friendly. Those there to pray came from a diversity of backgrounds and practices, in fact the gentleman who chanted the Haftarah was visiting from Australia and had asked via email if he could chant this Saturday. I got the chance to sit next to one of the Gabbaim and leaders of the synagogue and I asked him how it was that they could navigate such a pluralistic approach? He answered that the leaders of the synagogue hold as a value of the community the idea that they respect and welcome all Jews while maintaining their Zionist orthodox approach. He then proceeded to invite us to the Hazzan's special back room kiddush - which is by invitation only. Wow! Some good vodka, schnapps and herring!

After lunch and a little shluff, Alexis and I dropped the kids at Dannyland, an indoor supervised playland for kids (this is a really cool perk offered by the Dan Panorama). Then off for a late afternoon walking tour of the Jewish quarter. Reuven Lavi our guide if I haven't yet said this already is absolutely awesome. He really knows what he is talking about (which is always good for a guide) but also knows how to make what we are seeing relevant and fun. On this walking tour as we explored the Jewish Quarter, Rueven told us the stories behind everything from the Cardo (which was locked up on Shabbat) to how the quarter has been built layer upon layer, era upon era. Every building, street and archway has a story that connects it to real people and real history. I had walked these alleys numerous times but until this Shabbat I never had as intimate a connection to them.

Walking back we thought the kids may have been worried that we returned later than expected but to our surprise they were still having a blast at Dannyland (they had made a giant obstacle course), and we literally had to pry them away. After a quick refresh, the group gathered for havdallah. It is always sad to see Shabbat go, especially when you are in Israel, and it is the only real weekend day of rest. Yet, Ben Yehuda Street calls and the party begins.

Okay, so two years ago the kids and I discovered the Burger Bar. A really trendy burger chain that frankly just does burgers the right way. We got to the Burger Bar just in the nick of time, because literally half the world all of a sudden showed up, and began shoving, yelling over way too loud techno music and videos. The burger was great, but definitely go at an off-time. After gaining my hearing back, we joined the crowds in the sport of shopping and even got Mordechai a new kippah from the Kippa Man (a must go to shop on any visit). Overall, a great day and a fun night.

TBD Israel Trip 2012: Day 4

There are some things that I really look forward to when I go to Israel - like Shabbat in Jerusalem, seeing family and friends, and buying new kippot from the Kippah Man. And then by contrast there is Yad V'Shem. A place that fills me with such grief and despair that I wonder how it is that we Jews should care about the world at all after the Shoah. The twisted face of evil unbound, of the individual stories of people who are just like us humiliated, striped of humanity, starved, tortured, gassed, and finally burned to ash. Every turn of Yad V'Shem is an obstacle another horror unfolding. We who can walk out into the light, what is our sacred duty to those who only wished to live? What must we do to not only remember them, but live our lives worthy of carrying on a people, a tradition, that they were slaughtered as part of? And in the end, there are no words which can hold the weight upon my heart only tears.

Returning to the bus, I see Miriam and Mordechai. They went to Biblical Zoo with Alexis instead of Yad V'Shem. Seeing them is the best medicine for a broken heart. They tell me about seeing snakes, all kinds of birds, an animal that looks like pig but isn't (The sign says: This is not a pig! - in Hebrew and even in Yiddish so the Hareidim won't get bent out of shape) and finally the highlight the bears. Supposedly these bears love to entertain, so forever they will be dubbed "Jerusalem party bears."

We are now off to see one of my favorite museums in the entire world - The Israel Museum. It is one thing to read something in the Bible and another to see the epigraphy, jewelry, seals, coins, etc. One of my favorite areas is the development of the Hebrew language. I love seeing how the script changes through history. I love looking at the Aleppo Codex, the Dead Sea scrolls, and ancient tefillin not only because it's just so cool! - but also because it is pretty amazing to see the links throughout the centuries to what we are still doing today. People of the Book indeed.

With Shabbat around the corner we head back to the Dan Panorama (too soon for my liking) to get ready.

We walk from the hotel down the Yemin Moshe neighborhood. One of my favorite neighborhoods to walk in, Yemin Moshe was named for Moses Montefiore who financed the Jewish community during the pre-State years and helped them expand outside the walls of the the Old City. He built a windmill (which was being restored), and brought people to help train the Jewish pioneers on how to farm and live. Today Yemin Moshe is built into the hillside with the Old City directly across the valley. It has many artists and is a quiet, flower covered, stairway filled approach to the Old City. After the descent and then climb up to the Old City, we enter through the Zion Gate and pass a group of Camp Ramahniks from all over the country. Go Ramah Israel Experience! We head to the Kotel Plaza and it is packed for Shabbat. Literally, hundreds of thousands of Jews converging to welcome Shabbat. Tonight the men and women of our group go in different directions and I lead the men to the Wall. We finally get close and huddled together we welcome Shabbat at the Wall. People walk around handing out fragrant bouquets of myrtle, mint and other herbs to smell and make Shabbat delightful. After our service we meet up with the women and proceed to walk through the central market street between the Muslim Quarter and the Jewish Quarter. We go out through the Jaffa Gate and down and up again back to the hotel, where a sumptuous dinner is waiting.

After dinner, I led a session on Shabbat Zemirot (Shabbat Songs - generally sung around the table). It was a wonderful beginning to Shabbat in Jerusalem with some of the best people making it all the more special.

TBD Israel Trip 2012: Day 3

OK, so the theme of the trip is "Israel Through the Arts" but at it's core I wanted the trip to be as hands on as possible - especially if we could do something real to make a difference in the lives of israelis in need. This morning we are off to Rehovot to volunteer with Project Leket. Leket comes from the Torah's command to farmers to leave produce in the fields for the stranger, poor, widow and orphan. Project Leket works with Israeli farmers who allow volunteers to glean their fields for the hungry. This morning we are picking onions, yep, onions. They will be distributed today to the food pantries. We seem to have a knack for picking as we picked 800 kilos of onions which will feed 250 families! Great job TBDer's!

Stopped for lunch at Aroma's, a fresh coffee shop/sandwich place- not much unlike Starbucks. Although I think I will pass on onion rings or anything with onions for a while.

Getting dirty and connecting with the earth is good for the soul. With that in mind we are going to dig for a day in Beit Guvrin. Beit Guvrin is an important tel holding thousands of years of history layer by layer. First we climbed down into one of the underground caves where the Edomites kept their workshops. Much cooler underground. David out archeologist gives us a quick tutorial on how to use the pick and shovel, what is just a rock and what is a find. Miriam digs and immediately finds a huge piece of a jug. Beginners luck! Whoa! I found a handle to something, some charcoal, and a bone.
After digging and sorting into pails - we begin a bucket brigade with all of the earth we dug up. Excavating rule #1 bring up everything. We are now sifting through each bucket of what we thought was just plain dirt. Nope Marcy found a fossilized olive pit and a bone! Very cool.

Now David offers to take us on an Indiana Jones exploration into a recently found underground cave complex. Some opt for the olive press tour but there's no way I'm missing this opportunity. First, we have to crawl through a small entry that is lit by candles. Then we have to crab walk, slide, slither, twist, lower, and pray our way through a very tight maze of barely excavated chambers and caves. Along the way we find a columbarium (carved niches to raise pigeons) and finally at the end a water cistern. Note to self: I am not Indiana Jones.

Whew! Pretty exhausted from the digging and exploring. Finally, heading to Jerusalem to check in to the Dan Panorama. Now off to Little Italy restaurant for a delicious Italian meal. Belissimo! Really recommend this place the food is outstanding.

Ah, Jerusalem city of old, city of gold. Tonight we are heading to the Western Wall Tunnels. Most people think the Wall is only the part they see but actually the wall runs through the Muslim quarter as well. We are off underground to explore. Herod the Great built a platform for the Temple Mount over the mountain in order to level it. The Western Wall is a part of that super-structure. And SUPER it is. One stone stretched an amazing distance ans each stone is so thick that it holds back a tremendous amount of pressure. Each level is set back an inch or two to make the wall seem flat. A street with shops runs along the parallel distance, while a main bridge(represented by a huge arch) connected the upper city to the Temple Mount. (Outside Robinson's Arch had a stairway up at the Southern end) Today's Muslim Quarter is actually built on stilts(columns). I am amazed how such a magnificent structure could have been built without hydraulics and huge mechanized machines. Truly remarkable.

Tonight there is a light show throughout the Old City, it is spectacular. I love being back in Jerusalem. I feel as if I'm somehow home.

TBD Israel Trip 2012: Day 2

For those of us who love the theatre- this morning we had the chance to meet an incredible group of students who are studying acting at the Goodman School of Acting in Beersheva. One of the things that impressed me most was how as part of their studies they work in the community with children at risk, the disabled, and bring contemporary societal issues to the fore through their art. It is truly a family of the arts and community.

Now we are off to the museum of the Negev and Beersheva. To imagine only four Turkish buildings in 1900 which comprised the city- to today with its university, Saroka medical center, fountains and modern high rises is an incredible achievement. The vitality and vision of a beautiful city from nothing short of impressive.

Leaving Beersheva we are heading South into the Negev on our way to one of the natural wonders of Israel machshe Ramon (mitzpeh Ramon crater). Like the Grand Canyon, Machshe Ramon was hollowed out over millions of years. It is a breathtaking site to see a place filled with awe. We recited the blessing- God who continually renews creation.

Then we got to do a little "creating" of our own with a hands on mudbrick building workshop. Everyone built bricks and Miriam & Mordechai even got to construct an arch out of mudbricks and mortar (charoset anyone?).

Finally after a quick wash and change of clothes we met my friend Rabbi Mauricio Balter of Congregation Eshel Avraham (Abraham's Tamarisk Tree) for a wonderful homemade dinner and Ma'ariv service. The community is so welcoming and active that the city of Beersheva has asked them to open more preschools and to engage in even more outreach. Proud to be a Conservative/Masorti Jew advocating for a non-coercive pluralistic Judaism.
On our way home we got to see the beautiful fountain lights throughout Beersheva - what a fitting finish to a jewel of the Negev.

TBD Israel Trip 2012: Day 1

Grounds of Ben Gurion University

Mayor of Beersheva Ruvik Danilovich

It is hard to imagine starting our trip any better! The word that sums up the day was- GOOD. Good flights, good food, Goodman family and most important good people. Got the VIP treatment in Beersheva thanks to the vision, support and love of Larry Goodman and his family in helping build the city of Beersheva. Toured Ben Gurion University, where the vision is really to integrate social justice, community outreach and top notch learning to build the Negev and Israel.

Then had the privilege to meet the Mayor of Beersheva who shared his enthusiastic vision for Beersheva and the Negev. He is young, bright and not only a dreamer but a doer.

Goodman Bat-Dor Dancers "Checking Status on Facebook"

I could never imagine being blown away by interpretive dance but at the Goodman Bat-Dor Dance School, that's just what happened. We witnessed a rehearsal and private performance of "Facebook Status" an interpretive dance. Wow! Unreal!

TBDer's in Lakiya Bedouin Tent

On to Lakiya a Bedouin village where through women's embroidery, small steps to culture change and the path to women's rights has begun. It was difficult to hear and see the plight of women stuck in the past but also inspiring to witness their resolute courage to begin changing their future.

Perez/Martinez Family in Beersheva

Ended the day in an extraordinary way by sharing dinner with the whole Martinez/Peretz family. It was great to see them and hear the next chapter in their incredible lives. Stay tuned with pictures to follow. Shalom v'l'hitraot!